Left Kosovo on a bus at 4 am, thence to a plebian resort town on the
coast in Albania. Lonely Planet said the water was so toxic that you'd
get sick swimming in it, but the Albanians, I think, are busting ass to
upgrade their infrastructure and tourist industry. The beach was lined
with hotels, the kind that speak of working class vacation spots. The
beach was crowded with Albanians, swimming--with no evident bad results.
I was gunning for this city. I found a bank to get some Albanian
money and ran into an Albanian emigre who lives in Phoenix (27 years,
he said). He helped me translate questions about how to grab local
minibuses to get to Shkroda. The bank guard even went out on the street
to hail the van for me. So I made it and spoiled myself with an air
conditioned room in a downtown hotel. $27/night, the most I've spent on
this trip. They stuck me in a corner, first floor room, obviously
embarrassed at the weird backpacker appearing at their door.
I found a tour provider ("OutdoorAlbania.com") that has some interesting jaunts. I hope to find out tomorrow if I can join one.
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